Just off the Greek mainland, on the car-free island of Hydra, donkeys, mules and foot-power get people and luggage around, while water taxis skim between the harbour and hidden coves. Hydra has long drawn artists, writers and musicians — Leonard Cohen among them. Old stone mansions climb the hillside, boats come and go below, and the sea seems to appear at the end of every path.
Spetses has its own easy-going character. Pine trees reach towards the water, neoclassical houses line the old harbour and most people get around on bicycles. Down at the Old Harbour, traditional wooden boats are still built by hand — you can hear the knock of hammers and smell the pitch.
Days on these islands fall easily into place. Walk the coastal paths, cycle beneath the pines, swim from rocky coves or charter a boat and find a beach of your own. Come evening, find a table in the harbour and watch the boats return. Before long, island life starts to feel wonderfully uncomplicated.